Influencers really do influence. When Kim Kardashian, who is famous for being famous, revealed that she had tried a 鈥渟almon sperm facial,鈥� dermatologists and wellness clinics offering the procedure saw an increase in business. The same thing happened when actresses Sandra Bullock and Cate Blanchet sang the praises of the 鈥減enis facial鈥� they received at a high-end skincare clinic in聽New York City聽run by celebrity facialist聽Georgia Louise.
Let鈥檚 start with the salmon sperm facial. First feature to clarify is that no faces are being smeared with or being injected with salmon sperm. The supposed skin rejuvenating ingredients are breakdown fragments of DNA known as 鈥減olydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN).鈥� These are produced by subjecting DNA extracted from salmon sperm to certain enzymes. Actually, any DNA will do since there is nothing special about salmon DNA except for its ready availability from 鈥渕ilt,鈥� the sperm-filled reproductive gland of the male salmon. In what is erroneously called a 鈥渟perm facial,鈥� a mix of purified polydeoxyribonucleotides is injected into the skin with tiny needles. But 鈥渟perm facial鈥� sounds more exotic and more natural than treatment with tongue-twisting polydeoxyribonucleotides. These just sound too 鈥渃hemical.鈥� However, the salient question isn鈥檛 what the treatment should be called, but whether the image reflected from the mirror on the wall after undergoing the procedure will seem more appealing. Maybe. But it won鈥檛 be a head-turner.
Experiments using PDRN date back to the 1980s with scientists theorizing that these compounds would furnish the building blocks for the synthesis of new DNA as needed by cells as they multiply to heal wounds. Indeed, there was a beneficial effect on scars and burns. Furthermore, researchers also noted improved hydration of the skin, a reduction of inflammation and an increase in fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen, the protein that provides skin with structure, firmness and elasticity. That observation stimulated trials of PDRN for cosmetic use. Results have been mixed. Applying polynucleotides to the skin topically is no more effective than standard moisturizing creams, but when combined with microneedling, a minimally invasive procedure using thin needles to make tiny holes in the skin, polynucleotides did produce some improvement.
That improvement is being attributed to two factors. Enzymes in skin break the polynucleotides down to their component nucleotides, then into the simpler nucleosides that are then used by cells to build the new DNA needed for skin cell multiplication. However, one of the nucleosides, adenosine, serves yet another function. It stimulates a receptor that activates a cascade of reactions leading to the formation of new blood vessels that bring nourishment and oxygen to the skin. The outcome can hardly be described as spectacular but may be found to be satisfactory, at least in the eye of the beholder who has shelled out considerable funds for the treatment. When performed at a clinic, 鈥渟almon sperm facial鈥� appears to be free of risk since the sperm extract contains no live cells, is sterilized, and any potentially allergenic proteins are removed. It should be mentioned, though, that microneedling by itself can also improve skin appearance.
Now on to the 鈥減enis facial.鈥� That attention-grabbing turn of phrase was first jokingly used by Sandra Bullock when she appeared on Ellen DeGeneres鈥� talk show. While that description is farcical, there actually is a penis connection, although the more appropriate term for the procedure is 鈥淓pidermal Growth Factor (EGF) Facial.鈥� EGF is a protein that promotes cell growth and is found in fibroblasts. Originally the necessary fibroblasts were isolated from the foreskin of Korean infants after circumcision, hence the penis connection. These cells were cloned, and cell lines established that could be grown in a medium from which EGF is then extracted. Alternatively, the gene that codes for EGF can be isolated and inserted into bacteria that will then crank out the EGF protein. In either case, the final serum that is used for the facial contains no cells, it is just a protein solution. The idea is that injecting the serum into the skin with microneedles will boost cell turnover, increase collagen production and improve skin texture and firmness.
While salmon sperm and penis facials may appeal because of their novelty and celebrity testimonials, evidence indicates that effects are at best modest and lag behind hyaluronic acid injections and topical retinoid therapy. Hyaluronic acid plumps up the skin and improves fine lines resulting in a smoother appearance. Retinoids like Retinol and Tretinoin are even more effective because they actually change gene expression and increase collagen synthesis. Treatment with these can legitimately be described as 鈥渉aving clinically proven anti-aging effects with regular use.鈥� Of course, hyaluronic acid and retinoids can be used in combination with either polynucleotide or EGF facials with hopes that the additive effects will achieve a youthful glow. Possible. Still, the best way to prevent skin aging is not by addition but by subtraction. What you want to subtract is sun exposure. It is the sun鈥檚 ultraviolet rays that cause 鈥減hotoaging.鈥� If you need proof, compare the skin on your face to that on your bottom. You will have no trouble determining which is less wrinkly although you may have to obtain this visual opinion from a trusted friend.
